This article originally appeared in the Fall 2023 issue. View the full issue here.
Love trains? Did you know the first passengers to ride on a steam locomotive did so on Sept. 27, 1825, going from Stockton to Darlington, England, at a blazing speed of 15 mph? If you’d like to make your own history on the tracks, a trip with Rocky Mountaineer offers a blend of train travel and adventure that’s unlike any other.
Founded in 1990, Rocky Mountaineer train tours are known as the best way to see some of the otherwise-inaccessible but stunningly gorgeous areas of the Canadian Rocky Mountains. Topping many a bucket list, a Rocky Mountaineer trip never disappoints, regardless of whether you’re a passionate photographer or simply someone who wants to lean back in the plushy upholstery and devour the jaw-dropping scenery – along with the gourmet meals and free-flowing drinks that are part of every tour.
From the moment you board the glass-domed train, you become a VIP, cared for by an attentive cabin host who not only serves your meals, snacks and drinks but also provides interesting and often very funny commentary as you roll along. There’s a lounge car where you can head with your friends – or make new ones – while the bartender serves up cocktails, beer and wine. It’s like your favorite pub, but on rails.
When you see a bit of scenery you just have to capture, you can grab a spot at the railing in the open area between cars, where no glass will get between you and your shot. The day flies by so quickly, you won’t believe you’re arriving at the next stop. You won’t sleep on the train. Instead, hotel rooms will have been organized as part of the tour and you’ll either be given dinner on the train, or be free to explore in your overnight spot to find a local restaurant.
The Rockies to the Red Rocks Route
For most of its history, Rocky Mountaineer featured only Canadian itineraries, with routes that stretched from Vancouver, to Jasper, Banff, Lake Louise and Calgary but a few years ago, an American tour was added to the lineup. The route, called Rockies to the Red Rocks, now ferries guests from Moab, Utah, to Denver, Colo., with a midway stop in Glenwood Springs, Colo. Traveling through some of the most spectacular scenery in the U.S., this is a tour that immerses you in western beauty.
Though you can do the train tour in either direction, my group began in Moab, Utah, where we first spent a couple of days exploring the famous red rock canyons. Hiking through Arches National Park took our breath away – and not just because of the elevation, which is 4,025 above sea level.
The red rock formations are spectacular, including Delicate Arch – the symbol of the park itself; Balanced Rock, a massive boulder that perches on top of a pedestal of mudstone; Double O Arch, made of two arches standing one on top of the other; North Window, where eager photographers line up at sunrise to catch the Turret Arch through the window and so many more too numerous to list.
There are so many fascinating rock formations, in fact, that we could easily have spent a week hiking just around Moab – but there was more to experience. One evening, we did a Hummer tour of the canyons, with our guide George, a recently-retired-postal-worker-turned-speed-demon behind the wheel. We had to draw straws to see who’d ride shotgun – and I won (lost?) and was treated to incredible straight-down-cliff-side views as we zoomed through the canyons, watching the sun sink into the red horizon. By the time we’d finished our exploration of Moab, my nerves were a bit ragged and I was ready for the two relaxing days of train travel that took us to Denver.
Onward to Glenwood Springs
We boarded just after lunch but a charcuterie plate and a drink were served immediately – a great start-your-engines snack with the emphasis on local produce, meat, wine and beer. That first day, our ride was just over five hours, which left us time for a quick walk around the pretty mountain town of Glenwood Springs, a hamburger at a local diner and – the highpoint of the evening – a dip in the Hot Springs Pool. The size of an Olympic facility, the Hot Springs Pool is in the center of town, within an easy walk of the station and our hotel, so a long soak in the naturally heated waters was the perfect end to our day.
Next morning, we started with a fresh cup of coffee from the welcome kiosk Rocky Mountaineer had set up at the side of the tracks. That day’s itinerary took us past stark red cliff faces and then, along the Colorado River, where we were enthusiastically mooned by the white water rafters drifting along in the calm areas. It’s become a bit of a tradition since the coming of Rocky Mountaineer to the area – and we learned that if the mooning you receive includes a hearty bum slap from the performer, you’ve really had the full welcome.
We rolled into Denver just in time for dinner at the Crawford Hotel, an elegant old-style inn that sits right on top of the train station, making the transfer to the airport the next morning ultra-convenient. While I was excited to be in Denver, a city known for its great museums and restaurants, I was sorry to be leaving the Rocky Mountaineer. Next day, I imagined that I rolled a bit as I walked, in memory of the rhythm of the rails.
All about Rocky Mountaineer: rockymountaineer.com
This article originally appeared within the Spring 2021 issue. View the full issue here, or browse all back issues in the CRACKYL Library.
