Surf Into Stillness on Vancouver Island

There’s a silvery stillness on the shores of Vancouver Island that wraps you in its tranquility and makes you wish you could stay forever.

Maybe you will.

But first, you’ll need a home away from home, and there’s no better choice than the iconic Wickanninish Inn on Chesterton Beach. A family-owned and operated resort, the Wick, as it’s affectionately known, is the embodiment of West Coast culture. Exquisite Indigenous art is everywhere – stunning paintings and graceful carvings you’ll quickly come to covet – you feel as if you’ve found the ultimate west coast gallery.

Cozy suites overlooking the shores will invite you to relax by your own fireplace and savor a welcoming feast of smoked salmon – cold and hot smoked and candied.

You’ll catch yourself hoping for really bad weather – high winds and crashing waves – because the dining room at the Wick is the place to experience a storm party. The gleaming copper fireplace roars in answer to the howling winds as rain buffets the huge expanse of windows and massive waves explode against the walls.

You’ll feel as if you’re in the very heart of the storm as you sit at your snug table, enjoying a fabulous dinner.

Though you might be tempted to just stay in your room and absorb the Wickaninnish vibe, the waves will call to you. If you’re already a surfer, grab your board and head out. If you’re still learning, drop by Surf Sisters just down the beach. There you’ll find not only top-notch rental equipment for every surfer but also experienced teachers, ready to take you out into the waves.

Remember those old surfer movies of the early 1960s where it all looked so easy? You just grabbed a board, caught a huge curling wave and suddenly, you were a rock star.

Not so much.

When I headed into the waves with the endlessly patient Surf Sisters instructor, I was fully expecting to pop right up on the board and cruise my way to shore. Learning curve? What learning curve?

As a lifelong snow skier, I was hoping I’d balance without much trouble, but the reality is surfing is more complicated than it looks. First, there’s the water temperature. A wetsuit is a must, year-round, and it ultimately kept me warm in the vast Pacific Ocean. But first, there was that moment when the first trickle of icy water slides in. That’s how it works – your body heat warms that trickle of water and it hangs around inside the suit to keep you warm. I knew that, but it didn’t make that first trickle any less frigid!

Then, there’s the paddling out. Turns out a surfboard is wide – stretching my arms far enough to paddle through the waves was a serious challenge. By the time I got far enough out to think about hopping up and riding in, I was exhausted.

“No rest for the wicked,” said my instructor, “Get up.”

I quickly discovered surfing is a multi-step process. Start with your belly on the board, pull yourself to your knees and stand.

Easy? Not.

There’s a whole lot of splashing and crashing and saltwater gulping that comes between those three steps. After what seemed like an hour (or was it two?), I finally rose to my feet – and then immediately did a header back into the waves.

It didn’t matter. I was delirious with joy that I’d actually stood.

And even happier that I’d soon be back by the fireside in my glorious room at the Wick, quickly rewriting history and turning my surfing adventures into something to be proud of. My Surf Sister instructor would never rat me out, I was sure, and in time, I’d drink my own Kool-Aid and come to believe I looked just as good as the surfers in those old beach movies.

If you’re thinking about treating yourself to a West Coast getaway at the Wickaninnish Inn, surfing is just one of the many adventures you might enjoy. Go on a guided bear searching hike, or take a whale watching tour or simply wander the charming streets of nearby Tofino, exploring art galleries and visiting great cafes and restaurants.

Maybe you’ll find yourself as fascinated by the beach as we were, and will sit happily on the huge driftwood logs, watching the ocean rolling in and out, swallowing and then disgorging the sand, shaping and reshaping the shoreline with the unending grace of nature.